Through closed eyelids, the sun taps me awake. The rhythmic in and out of ocean waves lures my eyes open. Over distant coastal hills, the sunrise lays a trail of gold across the dark bay. Suddenly, something skirts across the water. Jumping up, I grab the binoculars and scan the expanse. A group of playful sea lions is making an early morning pass. And what’s that over there? Unbelievable! Thirteen sea otters enjoying a dawn breakfast, including two moms with babies in tow. Brown pelicans drift by, along with a lone sea kayaker.
Am I dreaming? Yes, it’s the most delightful dream as I wake up on my first morning at Cannery Row on Monterey Bay.
Staying on Monterey Bay is akin to spiritual. I feel it as soon as I arrive. To make the most of this escape, a bona fide “room with a view” is absolutely in order. Worries checked at the Monterey Bay Inn front desk, I spend a few days indulging my senses. Pedestrian-friendly Cannery Row offers all of the best possible distractions, including the splendor of Monterey Bay. Take Amtrak or park the car, and walk – everything I need is just that close.
The new ocean-view suites at Monterey Bay Inn take my breath away. Summed up, it’s the sensation of floating over the ocean. With trepidation I approach, “Where does the carpet end and free fall begin?” Ceiling to floor windows provide unparalleled views of Monterey Bay and the coastline. A balcony overhanging the crashing surf is the ultimate perch for quiet meditation. The view is so staggering I may never want to leave the room.
Cannery Row has an impressive list of “must sees” and the Monterey Bay Aquarium is at the top. Easily an all-day adventure, it’s difficult to know where to begin. The comical stylings of the resident sea otters made a good starting point. Luckily when I arrive, they are front-and-center at their window and tucked into a couple of crab legs. I wrench myself from their merry antics. The floating and ethereal jellies leave no doubt that masterminds are at work in our vast oceans. They pulse and throb – as many different shapes, sizes, and colors as anyone could imagine. The “Jellies Living Art” exhibit is art come to life. The framed watery canvases and surreal lighting is the perfect display for these lithesome creatures.
For wine-o-files, a meander delivers the best of Monterey County wines. The tasting room is just blocks from the hotel, which is an easy walk. Specializing in estate-grown varietals from their vineyards in Santa Cruz, I start with the notable Bargetto tasting room. A Cannery Row pioneer since 1967, they recently relocated to more spacious digs in the Monterey Canning Company building. I enjoy a number of wines, but I’m really wowed by Bargetto’s delightful mead. Reminiscent of honey it may be too sweet for some tastes. They serve it warm and slightly mulled, which I imagine is lovely on a cool, foggy day. It is the number one selling mead in the country! There are several other tasting rooms on Cannery Row including A Taste of Monterey Wine Visitor Center, which represents more than 70 wineries. The Visitor Center’s superb Monterey Bay views are a pleasant distraction from the important work of wine tasting.
The quintessential dining experience along Cannery Row is the 40-something Sardine Factory. A star in its own right, this historic culinary landmark is a celebrity favorite (and backdrop in Play Misty for Me). The owners, Ted Balestreri and Burt Cutino, fulfilled a life dream when the restaurant opened in 1968. From the start, they determined to provide the finest cuisine, ambiance and service; they succeeded. The freshest local seafood and produce are menu regulars. The house-creation Abalone Bisque has been on the menu since day one. Local Monterey sand dabs, scampi sambuca, and coriander encrusted Ahi…food euphoria! Though the menu flaunts Monterey’s seafood riches, I couldn’t skirt the meat offerings, which are handpicked and cut to Burt’s exacting specifications.
The Sardine Factory’s gastronomic delights are many and the portions are generous. From Key Lime Martinis and a world-famous wine list to the luscious tiramisu (a family recipe) and cannoli, this is truly a dining destination. Savor the experience one delicious morsel at a time.
Even with all these diversions, there’s always time for a trip to the spa. The Vista Blue Spa is a delightful stroll-away on the top floor of the Monterey Plaza Hotel overlooking the bay. Luxury and more luxury, this most excellent dream never ends. With a complete list of spa treatments, it’s a tough choice. I opt for the signature Elemental Massage that incorporates acupressure with a unique interpretation of life elements: air, water, fire, wood, and earth. Buoyant, I make my way to the rooftop Jacuzzi to absorb more of that wonderful Monterey air, water, and sky.
No need to wander for the sounds of Monterey Bay. Sea lions are barking up a storm on the nearby Municipal Pier. Children play below on the beach at San Carlos Park. The calls of Canada geese, seagulls and cormorants are music to my ears. I never close the balcony door; the lullaby of rolling surf seeps in and soothes me to sleep each night. A perfect peace; the clamor of my urban environs is swept away. •
More Ways to Indulge Yourself:
Gallery at 417
Located in a historic cottage, they exhibit and sell the works of local artists including watercolors, oils, collage, acrylics, photography, pottery and jewelry. Galleryat417.com
Willy's Smokehouse
Another Cannery Row must, it's all about the "Q"! Well, that along with great sides and libations such as a Willy's Sugarbaby: vodka, watermelon liquer and watermelon juice. WillySmoke.com
Serenity Salon & Spa, Monterey Bay Inn
The Monterey Bay Inn also provides in-room massages, plus its own fourth-floor Jacuzzi - a blissful outpost on a starry night. MontereyBayInn.com
Sly McFly's
Every night, the reverberation of live jazz and blues spills out onto Cannery Row. Call for times. 831-649-8050
To Get Your Heart Pounding
The Land Rover Experience Driving School at Quail Lodge will do just that. This experience will leave you breathless. Class takes place behind the wheel of a Land Rover SUV. For reservations and information, call 800-239-0533.
For more information, please contact the Cannery Row Company at CanneryRow.com
